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Contents Colour section 1—24 Contexts — Introduction The rivers, forests and lush valleys of the centre and north are a splendid contrast to its contorted southern coastline of beaches, cliffs and coves, and even the arid plains of the Alentejo region are tempered by vast groves of olive, oranges, cork and vines.
For so small a country, Portugal sports a tremendous cultural and social diversity. There are highly sophisticated resorts along the Lisbon and Estremaduran coast, as well as on the southern Algarve, upon which European tourists have been descending for fifty years. Lisbon itself, in its idiosyncratic way, has more than enough diversions to please city devotees — firmly locked into contemporary Europe without quite jettisoning its most endearing, rather old-fashioned, qualities. Tourism and European Union membership have changed many regions — most notably in the north, where new roadbuilding scythes through the countryside — but for anyone wanting to get off the beaten track, there are limitless opportunities to experience smaller towns and hamlets that still seem rooted in earlier centuries.
Differences between the north and south are particularly striking. Life follows an easy pace, especially in the dog days of summer, when the sweltering heat restricts activity. Agriculture reflects this divide as well, with oranges, figs and cork in the south, and more elemental corn and potatoes in the north. Indeed, in places in the north the methods of farming date back to pre-Christian days, based on a mass of tiny plots divided and subdivided over the generations. More recent events are also woven into the pattern.
The entire coastline of 1,km gives on to the Atlantic Ocean. Twentysix percent of land remains arable, with a further thirty-six percent made up of forests and woodland.
It became a republic in and is now a parliamentary democracy divided into eighteen regions, together with two autonomous regions the islands of Madeira and the Azores. After Lisbon, the largest Portuguese community is in Paris, and there are migrant workers spread throughout Europe and North America.
Returning, these emigrants have brought in modern ideas and challenged many traditional rural values. The greatest of all Portuguese influences, however, is the sea. The Atlantic dominates the land not only physically, producing the consistently temperate climate, but mentally and historically, too. Indeed, the use of chillis in the East only began when the Portuguese started to import them from Mexico.
The years of isolation under the dictator Salazar, which yielded to democracy after the Revolution, reinforced such emotions, as the ruling elite spurned influences from the rest of Europe.
For those who have stayed in the countryside, however, life remains traditional — often disarmingly so to outsiders — and social mores seem fixed in the past. It certainly beats to a faster work rhythm than the rest of the country but the city nevertheless retains an earthy, typically Portuguese welcome for outsiders. But if Portugal has a natural emblem it is surely its famous beaches, the most alluring of which are in the Algarve, where you can still escape the crowds on the offshore islands around Tavira and along the west coast north of Sagres.
Other less-developed but more exposed Atlantic beaches can be found up the entire west coast of Portugal, from the surfer hangouts of the Alentejo and Estremadura to the more traditional Costa da Prata resorts in the Beira Literal.
Crowds are even thinner along the Costa Verde around Viana do Castelo, but by the time you are this far north the sea is decidedly chilly for much of the year.
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In July and especially August the Portuguese holiday month , the coastal resorts are at their busiest and prices correspondingly reach their peak. With such a verdant landscape, it should be no real surprise that Portugal also has a fairly high level of rainfall. Most of it falls from November to March, though shifting weather patterns mean you can just as easily experience bone-dry winter months and downpours in May and June.
The north A 12 of Portugal is particularly wet, and in the higher areas showers are possible more or less throughout the year. In central and southern Portugal, especially on the coast, it is mild all year round and, although it can be cloudy in winter, when the sun does break through it is delightfully warm. Perhaps the best times of year to visit are in spring ie, from February — for the dazzling flowers — and early autumn October , when the weather is warm but not too hot and the summer crowds have thinned out.
Swimmers, however, should note that the official swimming season in Portugal lasts from the beginning of June to mid-September; outside these months, outdoor pools and river beach facilities close, while some hotels, restaurants, campsites and water parks only open from around Easter to September.
In winter, in the north things can get pretty cold, especially inland where snow is common along the mountainous border areas in January and February. In Lisbon, Estremadura, the Alentejo and the Algarve there are dramatic reductions in hotel prices and, in February, the almond blossom lights up the countryside. All highlights have a page reference to take you straight into the guide, where you can find out more.
European rail passes might save you some money, but most of the major ones need to be purchased before you leave. Flight time on both routes is seven to eight hours. The fare will also depend in large part on connection times: However, these usually only operate in summer. Travel and climate change Climate change is the single biggest issue facing our planet. It is caused by a build-up in the atmosphere of carbon dioxide and other greenhouse gases, which are emitted by many sources — including planes.
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Flying and climate change Pretty much every form of motorized travel generates CO2, but planes are particularly bad offenders, releasing large volumes of greenhouse gases at altitudes where their impact is far more harmful. Flying also allows us to travel much further than we would contemplate doing by road or rail, so the emissions attributable to each passenger become truly shocking.
In the meantime, there are limited options for concerned travellers: Carbon offset schemes Offset schemes run by climatecare. Please take the time to visit our website and make your trip climate neutral. Through tickets can be bought from one of the agents listed on p. There are at least two bus changes involved: Buses leave on Tuesdays and Fridays from London Victoria: If you want to combine Portugal with trips to other parts of Europe, consider a Euroline pass.
Flying into London and buying a budget onwards ticket from there may work out cheaper. Rail passes see p.
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The cheapest standard return fare over the Channel by ferry and with no couchette 29 for breakfast. The train has seats and couchettes and cabins complete with showers, plus restaurant, buffet bar and lounge. Prices start at e56 one-way, e89 return, for a second-class seat or e79 oneway, e return for the cheapest berth four-bed cabin ; there are also singles, doubles and gran classe cabins available.
Change at Entroncamento in Portugal for Coimbra and Porto. Tickets can be bought at Chamartin, or through the Spanish W www. The AA W www. The best way of cutting down the driving time to Portugal is to catch a ferry to either Santander or Bilbao in northern Spain.
They are expensive services, and either route still leaves a six-to-eighthour drive before you reach Portugal itself.
The list of specialist operators below is of mainly smaller companies, directed towards arranging holidays for individuals. Sophisticated specialists offering Douro walks, wine tours and cruises.
Caravela T , Wwww. Equitour T , Wwww. Accommodation is by the stables. Major charter holiday operator for the Algarve, Porto and Lisbon, mainly self-catering in villa complexes. Very good last-minute deals, especially in winter. Light Blue Travel T , Wwww. Upmarket Algarve operator combining a huge selection of villas and hotels for tennis packages based at Vale do Lobo Tennis Academy, with more mainstream villa and beach resort holidays.
Three-centre bird-watching in Alentejo, Algarve and Madeira or Algarve only. Can also arrange car hire. High-quality but value-formoney villa and long weekend holidays in the Algarve, Alentejo, Costa Verde, Minho and Sintra. Pure Vacations T W www. Good-value oneand two-week walking trips in the eastern Algarve based at Tavira , Alentejo, Lisbon, the Douro valley and northern parks, and options into Spain.
The emphasis is on nature, and accommodation is in simple hotels. Several departures weekly throughout the year. Monthly departures between April and July and from Sept to Nov.
One-stop agency for quality villa vacations throughout the country, golf and riding holidays. Worldwide specialists in independent travel; also student IDs, travel insurance, car rental, rail passes, and more. Good discounts for students and under26s. Friendly, competitive travel agency, offering discounted fares worldwide.
Airlines, agents and operators Many airlines and discount travel websites offer you the opportunity to book your tickets online, cutting out the costs of agents and middlemen. The websites listed below all offer good deals and useful price comparisons. Airlines Aer Lingus Wwww.
Be aware that rural train stations can sometimes be a fair way from the town or village they serve — Portalegre station and town are 12km apart, for example.
With some passes, you will also be liable to pay supplements and seat reservations on intercity and Alfa Pendular services. All other rail passes have to be bought before leaving home. Anyone resident in the EU for at least six months can buy a Eurodomino pass W www.
Travellers from outside Europe can buy the Portuguese Railpass Wwww. The Inter-Rail Pass Wwww. Unders will save around thirty percent with a Eurailpass Youth, valid for second-class travel.
However, at small, unstaffed regional stations you can just pay the ticket inspector on board. Major stations have credit-card ticket machines for purchasing long-distance IC or AP tickets on the day of travel or up to thirty days in advance ; and you can also buy IC and AP tickets on the CP website.
Fares are extremely good value, even on the most modern services. Seat reservations are obligatory on IC and AP trains, though they are included in the ticket price. It can be a little confusing at times: However, there is a national network of express buses, with Rede Expressos Wwww. Buying tickets in advance is a wise idea, but even in summer in tourist areas the day Getting around Driving: Drink-driving is rife, despite the strict laws and advertising campaigns: