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What do Seattle and Lucca have in common?
Both towns have a tower as their symbol. Guinigi tower was built during the thirteenth century. It is 45 metres high. Two hundred and twenty thousand visitors climb every year 25 flights of steps summing to total of stones, quite handy in the first part, but not the last, where it finishes in a narrow, tricky metal ramp. The average climb takes 15 minutes. It was built by the Guinigi family who ruled the town, the intention was to embellish their severe dwelling places with a tree-lined tower which then became the symbol of rebirth.
Looking at the year — some might remember- endless pouring until April, followed by abundant showers towards the end of June and drastic lowering of temperatures. In Valgiano we measured mm of water in March.. One could draw plenty of conclusions from these gloomy figures.. What about the wines? Few bottles were produced in It is inevitable that someone new to this type of experience is overcome by a surge of emotions, enrapturing and indelibly marking him forever.
Now I, too, can testify that this is true. Used to the comforts and commodities of city life that anesthetize the senses and send our ability for perception into cold hibernation, in these past months I have experienced a true sensorial awakening. In the course of each day spent on the hills of Lucca, sight, hearing, taste, smell and touch were bombarded by colours, sounds, noises, flavours, smells, perfumes… contacts characterised by a power and depth up until then unknown to me.
The purple of the must that inevitably stained hands and clothes, the motley shades of green dotting the hills, the leaves of grapevines and the unripen grapes, the pink of dawn and the orange of the sky at sunset filled my eyes without ever tiring them.
The sound of the church bells at noon announcing the much-awaited lunch time, the mingled voices of the grape-pickers along the rows of grapevines, the chirping of crickets facilitating sleep, the roar of the tractors marking the close of the work day, were the best possible soundtrack to accompany my days. The sense of smell becomes inebriated with the strong and unforgettable perfumes of the countryside: Rural life imposes that the hands always play a primary role: I would like to dwell more on describing the different phases of winemaking in detail, on the sensorial qualities of the wines produced or of the agronomic aspects of vine growing.
But in so doing, I would not render justice to what these months have really meant for me. Some days I find myself closing my eyes and thinking about this experience: It is absolutely indispensable for any person to realise that a different style of life compared to the modern one is indeed possible. I am not speaking about a Utopian return to the past or of annihilating the eases that technology offers, but of having a different perception of what surrounds us.
We must learn to practise feeling, getting excited over a perfume, a flavour or a colour. Living is Valgiano was my personal awakening of the senses. Is there any room left for the wild?
Living in a place should invite us to enhance its welcoming beauty , to take care of it as a duty in order to return it in an even better shape; it should help us contemplate passion for harmony and for the the establishment of an ideal perspective.
But in places where man has been heavy handed for an exasperating farming, the tree, the grass, the bucolic are an option; this is what happens where intensive viticulture is victorious: Revenue is wanted, plentiful and fast, and preferably with no effort involved.
We are against those who pollute the earth and wound it with settlements that clash with the surrounding environment; we are against antisceptic wineries , powdered wines and vassals, lobbies that, by appealing to the totally controlled, guaranteed and certified, destroy the soul of products and the essence of the rural and artisan world , erode the dignity of the landscapes and wineries.
We are certainly not fond of a natural wine because it is cloudy: We think of wine, of the aliment in ist nobility as enjoyement and delight. On top wine, there are other activities undertaken by those who farm in a healthy balanced awareness. Olive groves, vegetable gardens, orchards, beehives, farm animals, there are forests and if they are lucky to have an extra field, cereals will grow and alfalfa for rotation. Must not forget spots with weeds, where the wild can express itself, that is the way it should be!
Andrea Salvetti works with metals, all types of wood to make amazing objects both useful and splendid. He likes to mix his work with food and wine. The trough was put hanging in a Restaurant in Lucca and guests were eating directly from it like horses or cows do, no hands involved. One could sip red or white wine from a personal straw coming down from the ceiling.
Andrea also made 2 amazing BBQ tables, so beautiful that they would have fit perfectly in the dining room… he designed and constructed pots and pans using different metals such as brass, copper and inox, to go on the BBQ tables which were filled with charcoal.
A steamer, bread pan, vegetable pan, and a magnificent copper bean to caramelize fruits. He thought of Valgiano because we use horns in farming. We fill up cow horns with cow pat, then bury them in an autumn day, then take them out six months later, in the spring. This compost is then mixed with water — using a very precise technique- and employed as activator of the fertility of the soil. It is one of the many practices of the biodynamic system we use in Valgiano.
So we fixed the Horn firmly inside the property, at the corner of a hillock, like if it were a billy goat down looking at the valley where all the vines and olive groves lie. After a while, unknown persons kicked the horn at night, and other usually unknown persons wrote a letter that was published on the local newspaper asking what was the sculpture representing and the meaning of it.
Unfailingly, the day after, policemen came to check, so we showed the rural authorisation. Well, if these people have nothing better to do we are willing to reassure them by showing how it has been fixed to the soil. Does the Town Hall receive complaints also about this column.. Working the vineyard, being a vintner is hard work and one has to run; the fruits we pick are different from one year to another, so are the wines. Across the table, at the wine tastings, many consumers, clients, fans and curious people attend and ask many queries.
Do you do maceration, and for how long? Do you add sulphites? Does fermentation take off spontaneously or do you add yeast?
No one ever asks about the soil, which is one of the most important components of the wine, since the roots dig deep down through all the stratifications , whereas everybody asks what grapes are used. They belong to a place with a specific character, a personality, elegance, texture, consistency…it is not so complicated recognising a wine made in the vineyard -if well made- , from a wine built and made up in the cellar.
Little by little, consumers begin to understand and tend to choose lively wines, those which express a landscape. But the wines from Valgiano are often drank by other vignerons, and many of them are French…they are our , without secrets!
But yet, it had been written somewhere! Then it happened that in December , as the year was coming to an end, I read: That was the first time I read the calendar paying a lot of attention to it.
Jupiter was due to in the sign of Leo Fire and the summer was expected to be torrid. We now store the consequences on our skin, in the cellar and the vineyard. Is it a coincidence? The Greeks spoke about them in their mythology, an ensemble of allegoric myths which describe the power of Nature.
They meet and fight in a whirl of forces constantly moving. It would be sensible to observe the skies at least when urban fog and lightings allow us to do so.
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Valgiano wines marked are characterised by great Vivacity Some of you might not know, but last summer it rained rained. In the vineyard, very little light made it to the leaf canopy. Conveying grapes which had reached the correct maturity has been a difficult task, but, we —almost- made it!
However, wines are balanced though they are characterised by a great vivacity or impertinenceas they said once upon a time. It entertains a very subtle relation ship with the mineral salts as they contain plenty of them , with huge variability according to their birth place. Thanks to it, the mineral salts melt harmoniously in the mouth together with the natural acids present in the wines. Those acids will also obviously! Hence it is the Vivacity that underlines the minerality of the wine, its salinity.
Vivacity makes the wine live in the mouth, it vibrates.
At the same time, it enhances the aromatic freshness present in a climate or place wine, together with its style and minerality. They are not on the market yet, but are easily dinkable during this hot summer.
Same thing for the Palistorti bianco, but this wine is already sold out! We are proud to present the Miele di Spiaggia beach honey , which comes from the coast.
Here, the Thyrreanean waters wash the dunes and sand. On these dunes, between the pinewood and the shore, the bees live and savour the delights of the flowers of the Mediterranean scrub and the helicrysium meadows that stretch almost all the way to the shore bestowing on the honey a unique aroma.
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This is how the Miele di Spiaggia is born, sweet, but also with brackish notes, a of amber liquid until the autumn, when medium size grains begin to crystallise, whose aromas remain unaltered like those that can only be found on this beach during the hot summer days.
The Romans used to order from Greek ceramists and vase makers big quantities of anforas for wines and olive oil. The inner coating of the vases had to be impermeabilized, to be precise, they had to be vitrified, to avoid seeping. The Greeks often took shortcuts, and , instead of vitrifying more costly , they used liquid wax which they poured inside the container.
In practice, without tricks.
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This is where the word sincere comes from, meaning: Touching the wine by focusing on the way it feels in the mouth, on the tongue, and dwelling upon the salivation produced, one has access to the complexity of the place where it originates from. As Henry Jayer often used to say, wine is not made to be evaluated , nor to make a note of. It is not made to be smelled, but to be drunk. It was created by our ancestors to enhance the pleasure of staying together. Vintage In Ancient Greece, land was assigned only to those who enjoyed the trust of the community, because that was where the food for all of them came from.
For thousands of years, the farmer was he who practised labours useful for the fertility of the soils, not impoverish it. This system of land management lasted until very recently in the Lucchesia, in places like the Garfagnana, until the beginning of the 20th century. Land belonged to the community who entrusted it to different families every year, according to the numbers of mouths to be fed and the working arms; controlling the management and supervising making sure it would never impoverish.